FIRST ASCENTS
In climbing, a first ascent is the act of attaining a never visited mountain summit or being the first to pioneer a particular route up. First ascents are notable because they entail genuine exploration, with greater risks, and challenges than following a route set by others.
I created these route topos to showcase only a select minority of my proudest first ascents around the world. Each includes critical info for any future parties interested in attempting an ascent. When the resources are available I translate topos into their local language. All topos are free to download in full resolution because that’s what feels right. Anyone interested in more beta, history, or inspiration should feel welcome to contact me.
Chad
In December of 2024 myself, Sam Stuckey, Cedar Christensen, Bosco Bonilla, and Natalie Afonina set off to the Ennedi Plateau. We drove 3 days across the savannas of central Chad and deep into the southern Sahara desert. There we found the remnants of ancient peoples along with their modern descendents continuing to tend the same sandy lands. And of course, incredible monuments of unclimbed sandstone.
The rock was particularly chossy, but nothing that a seasoned desert climber wouldn’t love. All said, we enjoyed the summits of 4 new routes on 3 arches and 20+ new routes on independent towers. In addition to the topos here, I’ve painstakingly compiled and translated all the known routes in the Ennedi going back to 1964 into one free .pdf that can be accessed here.
Thailand
In both 2023 and 2024 I spent a combined 5 months climbing and living with the locals and expats in Thailand. I spent most of my time climbing and bolting routes in the south on world famous melting limestone of Krabi and on the lesser known nails hard granite island of Koh Tao.
Joob Joob (kiss kiss) ascends up a tower off the coast in the Andaman sea. The only way to approach is via watercraft. At 275ft above the water, the exposure on top of the route is breathtaking. Fun Dee (sweet dreams) ascends 550ft of perfect limestone above the town Ao Nang. One can walk there from any hostel and climb one of the tallest routes in Krabi. Both of these routes are bolted in a very liberal manner that matches the relaxed, vacation style of the region.
Malaysia
2022-2023 also had me visiting Perlis, Malaysia where I found a small, tight knit crew of core climbers and developers. We visited their home crag of Bukit Ketri. With their help, I pushed a proud line ground up for 250 feet on challenging, fantastic limestone.
After fixing lines, the local crew came back the next day to equip the route. The entire region is still barely explored for its incredible sport climbing potential (which the land managers seem to welcome).
Pakistan
I visited the big mountains for the first time in August of 2022 with teammates Lane Mathis, Sam Stuckey, Thomas Bukowski, and Lindsey Hamm. The Karakorum welcomed us into the Charakusa Valley, home of K6, with great weather and opportunities for adventure.
Our entire team repeated a line on the incredibly aesthetic Naisa Brakk, a 4,000ft mountain shaped like a perfect pyramid. Mathis, Hamm, and I went on to establish a new route on a neighboring mountain we called Ishaq Brakk whose summit reaches about 5,000m above sea level.
On day one we fixed the first 400ft. During the next weather window we pushed the route to the summit over 20hrs and 3 bouts of rain. We free climbed every pitch on lead using only traditional pro and placed only 2 bolts on the descent.
Greece
May of 2022 had me meeting new and old friends all over the Aegean Sea. After visiting world famous Kalymnos, I joined American expat, Nick White, on the island of Avia to bolt routes at an up and coming sector called, Manikia.
There we bolted single pitch sport crags and a multipitch sport adventure before the Petzl Roc Trip festival introduced the area to the masses.
Mexico
I returned to Mexico for the 3rd time in 2022. This time spending 3 weeks outside the remote village of Los Remotos. There I climbed La Popa, a miles long wall of limestone, towering over the desert landscape.
While completely alone I rappelled in, cleaned, bolted, and later lead rope soloed a 550ft route I named Como el Agua. The added complication of rope soloing combined with a relatively difficult grade elevated the experience of climbing this remote bolted multipitch climb.
To celebrate, I returned to the famous El Potrero Chico climbing area to bolt Bond of Peace from the ground up with Mike Burdon.
JORDAN
Winter of 2021 found myself, Lane Mathis, and Sam Stuckey in the desert climbing destination of Wadi Rum, Jordan. Though we only had ten days in country, we managed to repeat some classic routes and bolt 3 short ones of our own. Mathis made a great film about the trip that can viewed for free above.
COLORADO
I lived in Colorado for nearly 6 years. In that time I opened routes all over. And in all styles including ground up big walls, head point free solos, single pitch crags, and everything in between. These are just the biggest or most notable.
UTAH
I never lived in Utah, but cumulatively I’ve spent many many months there.
Similarly to my time in Colorado, I opened routes of all kinds there. These are just the bigger ones in my favorite place, Zion National Park.
Wyoming
In 2020 Lane Mathis and I isolated for two weeks in a remote sector of the Wind River Range called the Cirque of the Moon. This sector has rarely been visited. Because of this we had an easy time finding quality rock to explore.
Together we opened two routes both roughly 1,000ft tall and a fun boulder problem distraction. On one route, Mathis displayed proper ground up glory by putting up an 82 meter pitch using only 5 pieces of pro. Jealous, I returned to solo a nearby wall on what I also believed to be new terrain.
ARIZONA
In 2021 my internet pen pal, Derek Field, invited me to Arizona to open routes in the Coconino area. In my short week visit we opened a fine route up a beautiful buttress of sandstone. And, even cooler, became real life friends.
North Dakota
Although not a climbing destination by any means, North Dakota is my home state. As such, I’ve spent a good deal of time opening climbs along the few sandy buttes the prairie has to offer.
In 2017 I published a print guidebook for the state that is now sold out. However, a .pdf version can be purchased here.